With today's wide variety of fur fashion, your choices are endless. So give some thought to your purchase: How will you wear your fur? Will you wear your fur jacket with jeans on the weekends to sporting events or out with friends? Or will you enjoy the luxury and warmth of your 3/4 length fur every day on your drive to work? Maybe you're looking to add the perfect touch of sophistication to your evenings out with a handsome full length fur. Once you decide which fur best fits your lifestyle, its time to start looking.
Whatever type of fur you choose:
- Check to see that the pelts are lustrous, supple and well-matched.
- Feel the fur carefully. There should be dense, soft underfur that is evident to the touch under the glossy guard hairs, which should also be soft, never bristly.
- Seams should be sewn tightly. Hems should fall straight.
- Be sure to try the garment on to see if the weight is comfortable for you. You may be surprised at how lightweight many fur coats actually are.
- When you try on a well-made fur, it should be well-balanced, falling evenly and comfortably from your shoulders.
- There should be "give" to the leather side of the fur when horizontal tension is applied.
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Beaver
Sheared Beaver: Soft, velvety texture, evenly sheared. Often dyed in new fashion colors. Very durable.
Natural Beaver: Long, lustrous guard hairs over thick underfur.
Chinchilla
A short, dense, soft fur with lustrous slate blue guard hairs and dark underfur.
Coyote
A long-haired fur, often pale gray or tan in color, with thick, soft underfur. Very durable fur.
Ermine
Very silky white guard hairs and dense underfur.
Fisher
Silky guard hairs in brown to blackish tones and thick underfur. Very durable fur.
Fitch
Long guard hairs over light-colored underfur. Color ranges from pale ecru to orange tones, with black markings.
Fox
The widest range of natural colors of any fur except mink. Long, lustrous guard hairs with thick, soft underfur. Fox varieties include silver, cross, crystal, blue, red, gray, and white. Can also be dyed in a wide variety of colors.
Lamb
Broadtail Lamb: A natural flat moire pattern. Natural colors include brown, black and gray. Often dyed in more exotic colors.
Mongolian Lamb: Very long, wavy, silky guard hairs. Its natural color is off-white, but is often dyed.
Mouton Lamb: Pelts are sheared closely for a soft, thick, flat fur.
Persian Lamb: From karakul sheep raised in Central Asia or Southwest Africa, fur features flat silky curls. Natural colors are black, brown, and gray.
Shearling: Natural lamb pelts with the leather side sueded or leatherized and worn on the outside with the fur on the inside.
Lynx
Canadian Lynx: Displays creamy white tones with characteristic darker markings.
Russian Lynx: The whitest and softest of this very long-haired fur with very subtle beige markings. The whiter the fur, the higher the value.
Marten
American Marten: Long silky guard hairs and dense underfur. Color ranges from blue-brown to dark brown.
Baum Marten: Softer, silkier and shinier than American marten.
Stone Marten: The finest marten has soft, thick guard hairs and a bluish-brown cast with pale underfur.
Mink
Soft and lightweight with lustrous guard hairs and dense, soft underfur. Primarily farm-raised, mink remains the most popular fur. Female pelts are smaller in size and have a softer, silkier feel than the larger male pelts. Mink can be dyed in a wide range of colors and may be sheared for a sporty, casual look. Very durable fur.
Muskrat
Fur is full and thick with a black stripe and pale beige sides. Often sheared for a sporty, lightweight feel.
New Jersey Muskrat: Lighter in weight with contrasting colors.
Northern Muskrat: Strong, longer guard hairs and heavy, thick underfur. Often worked skin-on-skin.
Southern Muskrat: Flatter with little underfur, usually pale in color.
Nutria
Similar to beaver, it is often sheared for a sporty, more lightweight feel. Underfur is very soft and plush. A popular fur for linings and trims, it is frequently dyed in a variety of colors.
Opossum
American Opossum: Long, silvery black-tipped guard hairs with thick underfur.
Australian Opossum: Short, dense, plush-like fur, with colors ranging from yellow-gray to natural brown.
Rabbit
Generally medium length guard hairs in a variety of natural colors. Often sheared or grooved. Not very durable, sheds easily.
Raccoon
Long gray/black guard hairs with silvery tips over a woolly, dense underfur. Very durable fur.
Finn Raccoon: Long, thick tan guard hairs with black tips and dense underfur.
Sable
Long, luxurious guard hairs with dense underfur, yet very lightweight.
Russian Sable: Brown with a silver cast, it is the most expensive fur, especially when there is an abundance of silver hairs.
Canadian Golden Sable: In amber tones, somewhat less expensive. Very durable.
Squirrel
Short, soft guard hairs with a flatter, dense underfur. Very lightweight.
Tanuki
Also called Japanese Raccoon with very long guard hairs and a full texture. Color is light amber brown with dark, distinctive markings.
Weasel
Similar look to mink, with short guard hairs and semi-dense underfur.
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Every fur represents weeks of specialized labor and fine hand craftsmanship. Furriers have specialized skills which often have been handed down from generation to generation. The creation of each fur requires meticulous workmanship. The following terms describe some of the elements involved:
Brightener Added
A process which enhances the color of a fur.
Dyeing
Process of applying dye to create a new color. Dyeing is sometimes also used to correct any imperfections and to improve uniformity. Sometimes the pelt is bleached white before color is added.
Guard Hair
Long, lustrous outer hair that protects the underfur.
Knitted Fur
A new technique that produces a soft, comfortable, fur-in/fur-out look and feel.
Leathering
Insertion of ribbon, cloth or leather strips along with fur strips. May be done for fashion or to lighten the weight of the fur.
Letting out
Cutting the pelt into diagonal strips and resewing it to make the pelt longer and narrower. Sometimes referred to as "dropping out." The effect is supple and smooth flowing.
Mutation
Natural furs of special colors that are produced by selective breeding.
Plucking
To emphasize the velvet underhair of the fur. All guard hairs are plucked before shearing.
Shearing
Cutting fur to a short, uniform pile.
Shearling
Natural lamb pelts with the leather side often sueded and worn on the outside.
Skin-on-Skin
Rectangular pelts are sewn together to create a box effect as an alternative to the letting out process.
Tip-dyeing
Sometimes called blending. Dye is applied only to the tips of guard hairs to produce more color uniformity.
Underfur
The underhair covered by guard hairs. This is the layer of fur that acts as insulation to provide warmth.
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